Why the Art Deco movement’s sleek, bold reimagination of style is the driving creative force behind Deakin & Francis’ extraordinary new pieces.
Art Deco was the movement that changed the design world forever. The name brings to mind a vivid, technicolour-soaked image of easy jazz-age sophistication, complete with its own striking aesthetic defined by effortlessly pleasing lines. The kind that flirt with the eye and linger in the mind.
Art Deco first came to wide-spread prominence in1925 at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernesin Paris. The exhibition was outrageously successful capturing the spirit of the roaring 20s with over 16 million visitors and it is from this event that the Art Deco movement takes its famous name.
Now, as we join the worldwide celebration of a hundred years of Art Deco’s inimitable designs, and meticulous craftsmanship, the team at Deakin & Francis is exploring how the movement can be the inspiration behind a range of newly imagined pieces.
Workers in the Deakin & Francis Factory, courtesy of Deakin & Francis
A kaleidoscope of colour, form and rare beauty
As the world emerged wearily from the post war era, there was a strong desire across Europe for both stability and normality but also for beauty. Across the pond in America, there was a similar, shared restlessness to embrace modernity and change.
Entire cities had been levelled and presented with a blank canvas, designers, architects and engineers set out to rediscover a sense of joie de vivre.
They wanted to look forward, not back, and their answer to the disruption and chaos of the previous years was a bright, ordered sense of colour and form.
Everything from cafés, and particularly those in Paris, to arthouses and skyscrapers were soon adorned with intricate designs that included detailed chevrons, arcs, zigzags and sunbursts.
Experimentation with materials like terra-cotta, chrome, brass, and stainless steel helped create an entirely unique look and feel that brought a sense of freshness and renewal.
The fashion world, always with its eye trained for new ideas, embraced Art Deco‘s creative juxtaposition of material, form and colour to create glamorous, edgy new looks that featured plunging necklines, silky silhouettes and fluid, sensual forms.
Designers and fashion houses from Paul Poiret to Jeanne Lanvin and Coco Chanel shook off stale, outdated ideas of identity and what traditionally constituted “style,” to create bold, exciting new pieces that grabbed the attention of a new generation.
And within the jewellery design world? René Lalique’s superb glassworks and intricate patinas and enamelling opened new opportunities to experiment with form and function. Raymond Templier brought a bolder, more colourful and exuberant vision to his jewellery characterised by beautiful use of light and colour.
Materials like emeralds, lapis and rubies dazzled and sparkled in iconic designs.
Diving into the Deakin & Francis Archives
One of our biggest strengths at Deakin & Francis (and one of our points of pride) is that we have been at the heart of Birmingham’s historic jewellery quarter since 1786.
As we approach our own 240th anniversary, we continue to be England’s luxury jewellers. It means our master craftsmen and women have continually learned and refined specialist techniques, from guilloché, vitreous and lacquer enamelling to filigree work, stone setting and more.
Deakin & Francis were at the forefront of manufacturing cutting edge Art Deco designs in the 1920s. A browse through our archives has unearthed a wide selection of original pieces and designs from this period.
And with the Art Deco centenary celebrations this year we thought now would be a perfect time to recreate some of our original pieces, using dies, original sketches and designs created in-house by Deakin & Francis experts from the era.
Here is some insight into some of the heritage pieces that we have updated, recrafted and are now releasing as part of our own special Art Deco centennial celebrations.
Sterling Silver Jazz Cufflinks
Our Art Deco Jazz Cufflinks are crafted from sterling silver and feature an intricate enamelled rectangular decorative design. Designed as an homage to the vibrancy of the era these cufflinks capture the energy, glamour and excitement of the jazz age with effortless elegance.
Sterling Silver Sunburst Cufflinks
These Sterling Silver Cufflinks, available with yellow, blue or green enamel, feature the classic Art Deco sunburst motif to symbolise energy, radiance and a sense of optimism and positivity. The original designs were meticulously crafted, to ensure a sense of balance and deceptive simplicity. The final pieces feature a 10-panel design handcrafted with enamelling detail which dances in the light, subtly reflecting sunshine and creating a luminous feel that captures the bright creativity of the Art Deco movement.
Sterling Silver Pink Diamond Cufflinks
These cufflinks take inspiration from one of Art Deco’s most powerful motifs, the diamond. Used to convey ideas of exclusivity, form and grace, the diamond shaped design creates a sense of sophistication and prestige. This pair was originally designed in the mid 20s and features the classic emerald cut design as inspiration to create this unique pair with a deep pink enamel inlay that flashes beautifully just below the cuff line.
Sterling Silver Oval Sunburst Cufflinks
When we saw this stunning design from our archives, we knew immediately that it needed to be part of our centennial celebration collection. With its pristine oval design and 5 panel starburst inlay, these cufflinks radiate lightness and warmth giving the wearer a sense of vintage style and relaxed assurance. Crafted with sterling silver with its radiant, hand enamelled design, these cufflinks evoke so much of the optimism and energy of the Art Deco movement that has been a huge inspiration to the design and entire ethos of this collection.
Sterling Silver Spiral Cufflinks
This original design with a spiral decorative motif is handcrafted in sterling silver and showcases a beautiful, high contrast design that feels fluid and graceful. The enamelling work is highly intricate, and the finished cufflinks are polished, sophisticated and dashing - a fitting tribute to an age of boundless energy and optimism.
Sterling Silver Empire State Cufflinks
One of our favourite designs from the archives, these handcrafted, sterling silver cufflinks feature an enamelled rectangular design that takes its inspiration from the Empire State Building - one of the world’s most famous Art Deco landmarks. Bold, striking and pure of form, this design was one of our most popular original Art Deco creations.
Sterling Silver Nouveau Fruit Cufflinks
These stunning hand enamelled cufflinks showcase a nouveau fruit design that celebrates one of Art Deco’s biggest influences. The nouveau movement’s simple, artistic renditions of plants and fruit became one of the most recognisable Art Deco motifs and this design blends this influence with elements of Futurism to create a pair of cufflinks that are at once both wonderfully evocative and elegant.
Sterling Silver Aztec Cufflinks
This exceptional design features a bold geometric, hand enamelled design inspired by Mesoamerica and Aztec art. The free-flowing shapes, forms and bold geometric patterns create a sense of energy and movement, catching the eye with the way the contrasting design blends light and lines. Finished in a deep red enamel, this design evokes the openness to new ideas and inspirations that made the Art Deco movement so creative and inspirational.
Sterling Silver Tiered Cufflinks
These stunning cufflinks are crafted from sterling silver and showcase a bold stepped design. Inspired by the architectural lines of the Art Deco era, these cufflinks exude sophistication and strength, perfect for adding a refined statement to any ensemble.
Join us as we celebrate the Art Deco Centennial at Deakin & Francis
We are now releasing these pieces as part of our Art Deco collection that pays homage to this exceptional era in jewellery design.
We’re incredibly energised by this project and excited to unveil reimagined Deakin & Francis creations based on original designs, sketches and dies from the era. Every piece is handcrafted with the same care, expertise and mastery as every piece that we create and we hope you’ll be as thrilled and inspired by the collection as we are. The pieces will be available to view here and purchase online from 25th September.
Want to see the pieces first hand? Head down to our flagship London store at 19-21 Piccadilly Arcade or contact us on 020 3784 9369 to arrange a visit. Our designs are also available to be created as other pieces of jewellery through our bespoke service.
We’d love to invite you in to explore everything our new collection has to offer.
